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Photo-Bytes blog

About backups…

Ok, it’s not often I write about the more technical side of photography, even less about the computer part of it. Whoever takes digital pictures of has scanned his paper pictures of even the negatives will have found himself in this situation.

Hard Disk Full

Hmm, definitely not the best situation to find yourself in. It happened to me a long time ago and I looked for a solution before even turning off my computer. At the time it was a relatively compact laptop with a modest 160GB hard drive. I had had the foresight to partition that disk into a System and a Data part. I had to do this myself, computer stores never do you this service. It takes them an extra 5 minutes during installation of your system, way too expensive for them.

As you already know, I use Lightroom since its version 1 and am still very happy with it. Lightroom never touches the original pictures, whatever type of post processing you throw at them. But .dng files do have their metadata updated.

After a while you start thinking that all your pictures are perfectly safe on your hard drive and never will anything happen to them.

Mistake.

Of course things will happen to them. The first thing that can happen is a hard drive error or data corruption. That may sound very harsh, but in fact it can happen anytime to your drive.  A small glitch in your electrical supply and your disk may become unusable. Until you re-format it, that is.

Now that’s where the problem lies. In order to get your drive back, you need to destroy everything that you have done for the last n months or even n years. Not a pleasant perspective. Disk corruption will occur sooner if the disk is nearly full. Not all programs on your system behave well in a cramped space. Some programs just stop working, others will write their data on top of your pictures.

So the need for a backup or a safe copy of your pictures is one of the first things you will have to think of. In the beginning, some 6 years ago, I simply burned my photos to a CD and later to DVD. That may sound like a good idea, but with the newer versions of Lightroom came better quality processing. Pictures that had too much noise in version 2, were perfectly usable in version 3.

The trouble was that I needed to copy these pictures from the CD/DVD back to my hard disk, modify them and then re-burn them to a new drive. So I ended up with multiple versions of the same files, taking up valuable space. Updates of keywords come frequently when, at last, you find out the name of that yellow bird you shot a few years back.

So, the day that my own hard drive (the data part only, happily) declared that its belly was full and not one byte more could digested, I bought an external hard drive. Plugged it into a USB port and moved part of my pictures away from my internal disk.

After that, I could close my program without crashing it and my system was safe. Whew!

That movement made me think of the next step for the safety of my data. There are many backup solutions out there, some very expensive, some affordable and some free. My finances are not extensible to infinity, so network attached storage drives were not on the menu. At least not then.

An external hard disk of 1GB now costs around 100$, so that’s not insurmountable. Attach it to a USB port and we’re done.

Except for the part where I still like to make updates to my files from time to time. So, I needed a program to manage this for me. 

All those fancy systems have a great footprint on your system, meaning they take up a lot of space. For my backups, I use SyncToy from Microsoft. An easy program, you declare the source folder, your destination folder and the way that SyncToy should copy your data.

SyncToy

For myself, I use the “Contribute” method of the program, so that anything I do will be copied to my external drive, but when I delete something from my working drive, it is not deleted from the backup. That leaves me with an error margin where I can delete files, or lose files and still have a backup somewhere.

SyncToy exists for all Windows based computers and can be found here. It’s a free program, yes, MS also has some freebies. This one is pretty good and the copies of the files are very fast. 250 photos for about 2.5GB takes less than 2 minutes to copy and/or update.

Now comes the part where you will ask me where I store these disks. In fact, I have a few hard drives that I use for backups. One of them gets a backup job every week, another one gets the bigger monthly version. The monthly version also has a copy that goes to a safe place outside of my apartment. No not on the balcony by –30C, a different, safe place.

If I now make an update that is saved to my .DNG file, like keyword updates, SyncToy simply updates the file on the backup drive. You always have the latest version on a copied drive.

The only drawback is that you need to run this backup yourself. It is possible to have it run automatically using some other system tools, but I’m too lazy to look into that. Every week, a backup, easy as cake. An advantage of the program not running in the background is that you can disconnect your external drive without having any annoying popups warning you that your data cannot be backed up.

And my data is safe.

Lightroom accesses multiple drives

Granted, this does not guarantee you that your hard drive won’t fill up, but now you can have all those photos of previous years, just on the external drive, while the current year’s pictures reside on your internal drive. Lightroom can access both drives, so you catalogue remains intact.

 

How to un-goo a Garmin Etrex

Many people have come across this problem with the Garmin Etrex series. After about a year of normal use, the rubber band around the Etrex is coming loose. Not just because it has been in a warm car or has been left in the sun. I live in Winnipeg, and hot weather is not part of the climate here.

So, my rubber band came loose. First a little bit, then a little more and then completely loose. Well, loose… The gooey, sticky glue of the seal between that rubber band and the plastic housing of the Etrex simply kept sticking to my hands.

At some point it was not possible to touch the %^&* thing without having to wipe my hands afterwards!

So I decided to do something about it. 5 months after the first symptoms.

The first thing to do is to remove the rubber band as careful as possible, you definitely don’t want to make it bigger.

The rubber band should still look like this:

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To clean the goo from the rubber band, you should take care to use a solvent that does NOT eat rubber. Goo-gone is such a product, it will clean the goo, as its name suggests, but will leave you with a distended rubber band, completely useless.

I use simple Mineral Spirits from Canadian Tire.

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A little bit on some paper towel and you’re good to go. After that, clean the rubber band of spirits by washing it softly under a lukewarm tap using some dish soap. Soft is the keyword here. Then let it dry. The result should be a clean, goo-free rubber band. Make sure that the buttons are also cleaned and dried before doing anything with the rubber band.

Now for the Etrex itself. The Garmin site says that the Etrex can resist to an accidental dunk in the water. Sure enough, if you see how the housing has been sealed. There are two seals on the housing, the outer one, that is the one that has to go. The inner one is probably still good, it was in my case.

I left the inner one and removed the outer seal. In fact, that is nothing more than a piece of double sided tape. The same tape one uses for carpets.

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This is what the degraded outer seal looks like. Good enough for the garbage can.

Then I cleaned the Etrex with a small dose of Mineral Spirits and made sure the unit was clean of it when I was finished.

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So, if the Etrex was sealed with double sided tape, we can play that game too. I got myself a roll of carpet tape from Canadian Tire and used a fraction of that roll for this project. -- Edit: Make sure you take the HEAVY DUTY tape, the outdoor tape is too thin and not sticky enough--

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Of course the tape was too large and not the right form, but that’s only a minor problem. I used a sharp knife to cut the tape into the correct shape on the Etrex itself, no use in creating a template to cut the tape. As long as you make sure you are only cutting the tape and not the Etrex, you’ll be fine.

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After some time you will have put a new seal on your Etrex. Now it is time to get the rubber band in place again.

The biggest problem with this is that you can place the rubber band but can only slightly move it if it’s not in the right place. I started at the bottom side where the strap could go. The little notch will make a good start for a good placement.

To get the non-sticky paper off the tape, fold it half up to make it stick out from underneath the rubber band like this:

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Now you can carefully pull that paper and position the rubber band at the same time.

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After this, your Etrex will look like this. My carpet tape was not transparent as the original Garmin tape was so it shows a little bit. I guess I could clean that as well, but for now I am too happy that I can pick up and manipulate the GPS again without needing a cloth to wipe my hands.

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The last part is to make sure that the tape does its double-sided job by sticking to both sides. The rubber band will have been extended a bit and should be held in place by some rubber band, at least for a few hours to get the tape sticky.

That’s how I “repaired” my Etrex, let’s hope that this carpet tape holds